Above is a corner in Neve Tsedek opposite the Nana restaurant: a corner yet to be bought out by yuppies. The original Neve Tzedek house on the left is swathed in 'morning glory' creepers that are part of the landscape around here. But fewer and fewer of these untamed preserves are to be found as the construction boom continues. The house on the right is a centre for wood carving. I passed by there one night and encountered the bizarre sight of 5 burly men furiously chisseling and carving away.
Eliyahu (70) the neighbourhood sandlar (shoe-repairer) who for the past 23 years has plied his trade in the same hole-in-the-wall sandlaria on the edge of Neve Tzedek. Soon he will be looking at the ground floor of a massive residential tower now under construction a few metres from his old metal door . Eliyahu came here from Buchara when he was "39-40" but his Hebrew is still patchy. On the earnings from his business, he and his wife managed to bring up 5 boys, all of whom are now mesudarim (taken care of financially) , and some of whom, baruch ha-shem, are already grandfathers themselves. So he's not complaining.
On the way home from dropping my car off at the garage in Florentin, I ran into the backside of the monstrous Neve Tzedek Tower, now clearly nearing completion. Thankfully, part of the ground floor has been built on stilts which, at least at street level somewhat diminishes the impression of a massive impenetrable wall. The white building in the background is one of the Templer buildings undergoing restoration, part of the deal allowing this greedy monster to rise.
But when you look up ....Obviously time to escape to the beach again. Brisk exercise at sunset, near Frishman.
Yom Kippur 2010
Erev Yom Kippur, Rehov Herzl. A family walks down the centre of the normally busy street towards the Shalom Tower safe in the knowledge that they will not be mown down by a car. Yehuda Halevi, a.k.a. 'rehov habankim' because the big three banks have their headquarters here. Bereft of human or vehicular activity - as though on the day after a mystety virus had wiped out the population - the functional office towers suddenly seem functionless and the arrows on the street are pointing to nowhere. In this tempotrary deserted world the neon lights shine for no-one. All commerce halts. Capitalism takes a day off. Apart from the clicking of the superfluous traffic lights, silence reigns. Rehov Shabazi, Neve Tzedek. Three women, one pushing a pram, walk home from the kol nidrei service that brings in Yom Kippur. They might be a grandmother (right) grandaughter (middle) and daughter (left pushing agrandaughter. Four generations sharing the same ...
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